Ok, you take on the challenge to test yourself. Great!
Building this rudder is step 4 in my "how to begin" page.
I will provide you two drawings of the HM360/380 plans. One
holds page 17 named "rudder" and the other has the new dimensions
if you like to built the HM 380 rudder. The internal parts are the
same for both.
You can find some help to see how the template must be made at a
French site (luckily with a lot of pictures).
http://pou.de.reves.free.fr
. It shows the excellent work of Eric Foriers. He made a small
change on the top. But, mostly it is pure the plans he did
follow.
Don't panic! That page 17 is in French. I give you here the full
translation of that page.
Page 17
Title: Gouvernail
Title: Rudder
I begin at the top of the page (if you place it in reading
direction).
Gousset
Gusset
Echelle
Scale
Gouvernail arondi (mieux)
Rounded rudder (Better)
(Allonger les nervures)
(Make the ribs longer)
Bec non modifié (sept 1959)
Front non changed (correction added on sept 1959)
Surface
Rudder area
Large rondelle d' appui
Large washer to block the metal from entering further.
Bonne brasure
Weld
Poignée gouvernail
Handle rudder
Frappée face gauche
Install on the left side of rudder
On my HM14/360 it is installed on the side of the fuselage, so I
can still handle the airplane on the ground if the rudder is
removed for easier trailering.
Pour manoeuvrer au sol
To maneuver airplane on the ground
Montage du gouvernail
Assembly of rudder [From here on I will no longer place the french
texts]
- draw on a table the outer lines according to the sketch at
scale 1/10
- Beam of rudder: place according to sketch at scale 1/5, the
parts 17/1 and 17/2. Glue parts 17/3-4 onto part 17/1-2 and get
them together at a total distance between the outsides of 90 mm by
placing parts 17/5-6-7 like shown on cross-section and large
sketch. Lathe 17/2 is straight, lathe 17/1 curved towards the rear
and placed onto wedge 17/8.
- Cover with plywood 3 mm at both sides (DON'T FORGET TO VARNISH
THE INSIDES! You can varnish the plywood by placing a thin layer of
your water-resistant glue on the inner side)
- Glue and nail directly on the beam the supports of the rib
plywood (part A, B, C, D), but make sure they are a bit too long.
Place them according the total rudder view. First part C, then the
others who are parallel with C. Do both sides. Remove from the
table.
- On the table folowing the outerlines place place holders to
shape the leading edge parts (2 parts of 6x20 mm with glue between
them) and the trailing edge (4 parts of 6x12mm, but easier is 5
parts of 5 mm thick because it bends easier). Place your holders
zig-zag from one side to the other side of the lathe. You can also
use decentral circles to clamp the lathe between a holder and such
a turned tight circle. When dryed, shape them according to
cross-sections K and T.
- Place beam on table and fix part 17/13 (12 mm plywood or 2
layers of 6 mm plywood) by placing a gusset (part 17/14 in 1,2 mm
plywood) on both sides.
- Cut the ribs out of plywood taking count onto the length (using
normal or rounded rudder) and the width of the trailing and leading
edge.
- Parts 17/17 (hardwood) and parts A, B, C are glued together and
held by using bolts (3mm) and nuts. Remove bolts after glue is dry.
Do the same thing in with the trailing edge, use triangles 17/18.
But use nails or staples here (which you will remove later).
ATTENTION! Parts 17/17 and 17/18 exactly 24 mm from the table (1/2
thichness of beam) for a rudder not covered.
- Place lathe de leading edge onto the parts 17/17. Predrill a
hole and, glue and hold together by placing a screw into parts
17/17. Place and glue trailing edge by placing gussets (17/19 of
1,2 mm plywood).
- E is bended towards part 17/20 (6mm plywood) which itself is
held by part 17/21. Glue and lamp E onto 17/20.
- Part 17/11 (hardwood). Drilled with 10 mm after fitting the
rudder into metal part 9/34 (see presentation page 9, drawing
23).
- Fillers (parts 17/12 of 6x6) between ribs at front of beam, but
not higher than part 17/C.
- Cover F entirely with 1,2 mm plywood and sticks of 6x6 mm.
- Make weightreducing holes in plywood of ribs and glue them
on.
- Make hole 17/23 and finish all.
- Don't forget to make the handle (see next to drawing scale
1/10).
I continue with the page around the drawing scale 1/5:
Axe XY
Axis XY
(Base croquis contour)
(Base of sketch of total view)
Boulon 26
Bolt 26
emplacement de la poignee.
Place the rudderhandle here.
Remplissage latheral
Sideways fillings
Coins-presses
Wedge to press
I continue around the small drawings in the middle:
Enlever apres sechage
Remove after drying glue
Fil
Grain
Bec
leading edge
Fuite
trailing edge
I continue around the sketch of the beam:
Signe conventionnel largeur piece
Conventional mark of width of part
perdendiculaire au papier
vertical on paper
Cale d' epaisseur sous rondelles pour poignée.
Fillers of thickness under the washers of the handle
(translated by Koen Van de Kerckhove alias "Nest of
Dragons")
°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
I included a mail we got it this group which can help to
understand.
"That is a Mignet's quite crude solution : laminations are tied
together with a string and pressed with nails + triangular wooden
little blocks. I don't like to press some soft wood on a nail : it
hurts the wood.
I prefer this method :
1- draw the external line of the trailing edge on a pannel 2-
nail some tangential wood blocks 3- use lot of little clamps to
press the lamination Nota : the lamination could be made with 5
lathes of 5 mm x 12 mm, instead of 4 lathes of 6 mm x 12 mm. Much
easier to bend. Have a good work. Rudder is a beautiful part.
Regards,
Bruno"
°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°